Shapewear for Anarkalis, Gowns and Flared Ethnic Wear

For an anarkali, put your shapewear where the garment is fitted: the bodice, from bust to waist. A torso shaper like a bodysuit does most of the work there, because the flare hides everything below the waist seam. Add high-waist shaper shorts only for fitted gowns, or as a layer to stop your thighs rubbing under the skirt.

Why does an anarkali need a different approach?

A saree or lehenga is built from separate pieces that meet at the waist, and the midriff often shows. An anarkali is one piece: fitted through the bust and waist, then flaring out in panels, or kalis. Two lines decide how it looks on you:

• The bodice, which should sit smooth and close from bust to waist, without pulling across the bust or wrinkling over the stomach.
• The waist seam, where the flare begins, which should land at the narrowest part of your torso.

If the seam lands on the fullest part of the lower belly, the flare kicks outward from there instead of falling straight, and the whole outfit reads wider than it is. That's a tailoring issue first and a shapewear issue second. Heavy anarkalis with lots of kalis and embroidery add another challenge: their weight pulls on the bodice all evening and can drag the seam lower by the time dinner is served.

Which shapewear suits which silhouette?

The snatched bodysuit is made for the top half of this table: extra compression at the core and waist, style lines that support the bust, and rounded pockets at the back so your seat isn't flattened under a flowing skirt. For the fishtail row, the bodysuit and tummy tucker combo gives you both pieces together. If you're layering them, our guide on how to layer shapewear explains the order.

How do you get the waist seam to sit right?

1. Wear your shapewear to the fitting. A bodice fitted over a bra alone will fit differently over a bodysuit.
2. Ask for the seam at your narrowest point. For a natural-waist anarkali this is usually a little above the navel; for an empire line, just under the bust.
3. Raise your arms. Lift both arms as if you're dancing. If the seam rides up more than an inch, the bodice needs a little more room at the bust or armhole.
4. Sit down. Sit on a chair for a minute. The seam should stay level and the bodice shouldn't crease across the lower belly.
5. Check the weight. If the skirt is heavy, ask your tailor about a waist stay, a firm inner tape at the seam that carries the flare's weight so it doesn't drag the bodice down.

For bodysuit sizing, use the bodysuit size chart. As an example, the M in the S-M pack is listed for a 35 to 38 inch bust, 28 to 30 inch waist and 38 to 40 inch hips. If you fall across two sizes, choose the larger one: a bodysuit that's too small digs in at the shoulders and crotch and pulls the bodice out of line.

What about a backless or deep-neck anarkali?

Designer anarkalis and gowns often have a deep V at the front, a low back or a dori-tie opening. A bodysuit will show in any of these. Switch to the backless silicone sticky bra: no straps, no back band, no wire, and a centre clip that gives a little lift. Wear high-waist shorts below it if you want the waist smoothed. Pick cup B, C or D from the bra size chart, which lists the regular bra sizes each one covers. For more on open backs, see our guide on what to wear under a backless blouse.

Black or nude under an anarkali?

Go nude under whites, ivories, pastels, light georgette and anything with sheer panels or sleeves. Go black under black, navy, bottle green, wine and other deep shades. Under mid-tones like red, mustard or teal, a nude close to your skin is the safer bet in daylight. The bodysuit comes in black or nude, and as a pack of two (black and nude, or two nude) if you're wearing light and dark outfits across a wedding season. Check your choice standing near a window in daylight, which shows far more than the mirror in your room.

How do you stay comfortable under a heavy flare?

• Thigh rub. A heavy, flared skirt traps heat around your legs, and thighs rub as you walk between the stage, the buffet and the car. Shaper shorts such as the high-waist tummy tucker, which covers the upper thighs, keep skin from rubbing, which matters most on a warm night.
• Bathroom trips. Churidar, shorts and a bodysuit add up to several layers to manage in a small space. Practise once at home in the full outfit.
• Long standing. If you'll stand on a stage greeting guests at a reception, a firm bodysuit can feel tighter as the evening goes on. Take a few minutes in a quiet room to sit and breathe deeply every couple of hours.

Get the bodice and waist seam right, choose your shapewear for the part of the outfit that's fitted, and let the flare do the rest. Shapewear can smooth how an anarkali sits, but a well-placed seam does more for the silhouette than any amount of compression.

Frequently asked questions

What should I wear under a churidar?

Seamless underwear or high-waist shaper shorts in a shade close to your skin. Churidars are fitted, so check for edges at the thigh and seat in daylight before you head out.

Can I wear a bodysuit under an anarkali?

Yes, as long as the neckline, armholes and back are high enough to hide it. A bodysuit suits anarkalis well because it shapes the fitted bodice from bust to waist.

How can I make my anarkali flare more?

Flare comes from the garment, not your shapewear. Ask your tailor to add a can-can or net layer under the kalis, or a stiffer lining at the hem.

Do I need a slip under an anarkali?

Most anarkalis are lined, so you don't. If yours is sheer or unlined, wear a full-length slip in the dress colour or a shade close to your skin.